It’s August 12th, my 65th birthday. “So what we intend to do is make a small incision in your wrist and put a tube up the artery in your arm and follow this into your heart where we will inflate a balloon”. This procedure may sound familiar to many people of a certain age. As it turns out a great birthday balloon! After a week of local walking Michele and I decided I was well enough to head to our favourite area in Northern Italy for our annual Via Ferrata(VF) trip. As we were booking everything last minute and were uncertain of what I could do we headed for areas we know well.

Eight days after my procedure we set off in the car to Folkestone, staying there overnight before our Chunnel journey the next day. We enjoy taking a leisurely drive to the Alps. We are aware that it can be done in a day, but by doing so we would speed past so many lovely places we could visit on route, we are retired and time rich….kind of.

On our journey down we stopped at Valkenburg in Holland and Illertissen in Germany. We walked into the nice surrounding countryside near Valkenburg. It was particularly pleasant later sitting outside a bar in the town watching the world go by with a trio of beers in glasses equivalent to one third of a pint each. The barman told us all about the local beers we sampled and even the order in which to drink them. Beer was part of my recovery program as hops are one of my five a day.

Our first destination in the Dolomites was the Refugio Pomedes hut at 2303m looking over Cortina. The back road to the Refugio Dibona has deteriorated recently and judging by the smell, we used a years worth of clutch getting up there. Leaving the car at the car park near to the Refugio Dibona we made the thirty five minute walk up the hill carrying our kit for the next four days. It was pretty warm that day and I was, not to put too fine a point on it lathered. Michele being a lady perspired just a little. We were aware that there were two new VFs located near to the Refugio which we were keen to climb.

On our first day the weather looked good but only for the morning so we walked down to one of the new VFs, Ra Pegna located only fifteen minutes away. This VF although relatively easy was a good route to get the muscles working and get back into the routine of using our VF kit. A short steep ladder at the end of the VF leads back to the ski run. The run is called the Olimpia Tofana which was used for the final event of the 1956 Winter Olympics, the men’s downhill. The slope is steep enough to walk down never mind ski down it!

Descending again we reached the start of the VF Ra Bujela on the opposite side of the ski run. The VF is graded a modest 3A but beware, the initial walls are steep and exposed. The VF climbs the walls via ladders and bridges and although short when combined with VF Ra Pegna they make a very good half day. As we descended from the summit the rain began to fall and fortunately its only a short uphill walk back to the Refugio Pomedes. Our choice of routes for the day was justified as within minutes a full blown storm arrived. We saw a family group that day caught out by the sudden storm and they had to retreat off the Punta Anna. They were obviously ill equipped and also unrealistic with their timing, setting off so late in the day. They were very grateful for the warm fire at the Refugio.

Michelle on the metal spikes

The next day we headed off from the Refugio, after descending a short distance we then traversed the VF Sentierio Astaldi with its red layered rock formations. Using this VF eliminated the need to descend to the Refugio Dibona. We continued under the face of the Tofana Di Rozes and passed the start of the very tempting and excellent VF Giavanni Lipella. Resisting the temptation to change our route, our route continued to the Forc Col Dei Bos and past the Il Castelletto. Descending northwards we came to the start of the VF Scala Del Minighel. This VF is very unusual as it climbs a line of metal stemples drilled onto the rock. The VF climbs in two sections into the El Majarie valley. In gentle rain we continued to the Refugio Giussani for lunch. The return journey was downhill and again across the VF Astaldi to return to the Pomedes. This day was an unusual combination of a nice walk and some VF climbing. This route could be done in relatively poor weather.

As the weather was holding well our next day saw us ascend the short distance from the Pomedes to the start of the VF Punta Anna. Actually this route is known by a number of names and will if taken in its entirety lead to the summit of the Tofanna di Mezzo and beyond. The combination of VF’s is collectively called the Punta Anna. Our route ascended the ridge which was often very steep, strenuous and exposed. We ignored the escape route to Refugio Giussani and continued up slabs and a large corner before traversing across the huge face. Our descent was via the grade one VF Sentiero Giuseppi Olivieri which returns to the Refugio Pomedes. The whole route is graded 5 if completed, our section was certainly a good grade 4 and a very good round route. Later as we sat having a well deserved beer we witnessed an unfortunate accident. An elderly gentleman descending from the chair lift tripped and fell. Upon assisting it looked like the man had sustained a serious facial injury but it transpired it was just a cut from his glasses. We later learned he was shaken but OK. We witnessed at close quarters the incredible skill of the helicopter pilots and also some very good 4x4 driving by the Refugio staff to get the casualty to the helicopter.

Marcus near the top of Punta Anna

The Refugio Pomedes is typical of the high mountain huts in this area of the alps, but we particularly like the location which is especially good for the Via Ferratas and walking. The breakfast view over Cortina is stunning, the staff are all family and friendly. The evening meals are local food, cooked well and good value. Be aware that the rooms can be made up as doubles or twins. I found out that the double is in fact two single beds as when I rolled over to give Michele a bit of a cuddle I ended up on the floor between the beds as they parted. My bed had casters on, I think it was a trap set by Michele.

We intended to travel next to Cortina to look at a new VF near Vito di Cadore and also the VF Terza Cengia which we haven’t climbed. Upon researching accommodation we found the prices to have risen hugely. We are led to believe that a lot of hotels are being refitted for the upcoming Olympics and the remaining hotels have upped their prices. Also we had passed through Cortina earlier in the week and it was incredibly busy as there was a big event of some kind being held. As a result we found accommodation at Pescosta which was much more reasonable and headed there.

On arrival at the hotel Ciasa Roch in Pescosta, it seemed to be more like a cat hotel which incidentally also had rooms for humans. There were cats everywhere and more cat flaps than doors, but actually it was fine. The owner and family were all mountaineers and very friendly. The owner was also very knowledgeable about the area and provided some useful advice about our proposed routes. The family are also very active with charity work in the Himalayas.

Our first day in the area started with a good frost, we walked down the valley to La Villa. Taking a short cable car journey we then walked across to the start of the VF Les Cordes a relatively new VF. This VF is known as a good one for beginners however, it is deceptively steep and strenuous on a couple of short sections. A short walk from the top leads to the Refugio Gherdenacia. After lunching well here we continued on path 5 to the Forc di Sassongher at 2435m. It is only a half hour walk to the summit of the Sassongher from this point, but upon wetting my finger and holding it up in the air I decided it was going to rain so we descended quickly to the valley. Upon stepping through the front door of the hotel I was proved right with my forecast, the mother of all storms hit outside. It was so bad we didn’t even venture into the town for an evening meal and made do with snacks.

The following two days after the storm the mountains were pretty damp and with the threat of further bad weather we spent our first ‘rest day’ wondering around the high alpine meadows to the east above Corvara. Taking the Col Alt ski lift (Italys first, built in 1946) the panoramic views from here are excellent. The Marmolada, the Tofannas and the Fanes range are all clearly in view.

The following day we used the free bus service to go up to Passo Gardenna and returned on foot via path 8, 4B and 4A below the Sas Campiac. We had good views of the car park used for the VF Briggatta Tridentina on the other side of the valley. For those visiting the area the car park is still closed due to rockfall and the best access to that VF is by using the free public transport which drops off at that point.

With the forcast improving the next day we took the Boe Gondala and Vallon chairlift to repeat the VF Piz Da Lech which is graded 3B. This excellent VF includes some really good climbing on good rock and includes two huge exposed ladders with an awkward exit at the top of the second. The summit at 2911m has great views in all directions. Our descent included a lunch at the restaurant at the top of the Boe Gondala. The ease of access, quality of the climb and fine summit means this VF is highly recommended as long as you are willing to use the lift as the walk from the valley would be unrealistic.

Ladder pitch on Piz da Lech

Piz da Lech summit

After a travel day which included a walk, we checked in at the hotel Azola in Canazei we had managed to secure a very attractive half board rate at short notice. Canazei is rather popular but after visiting for the first time last year we had left a couple of new VFs to do and really wanted to repeat the VF Dei Finanzieri on Colac.

With a reasonable forecast we decided to head straight for Colac. The VF is situated on the northern side of Colac so can be quite cold. There is very little rock climbing on Colac as most of it is as they say, is a ‘tottering pile of choss’, however the VF winds its way up some really good rock including some nice slabs. There are two highlights on the route, the first being the ladder section which starts with a thirty foot overhanging section followed by a long section of vertical ladders. The second highlight is the final wall which has just the right number of stemples and handholds. This final wall requires good balance as the holds are offset. This is quite a long route and needs to be dry to be able to enjoy it properly which fortunately for us it was.

The long descent from the summit is via an easier VF therefore virtually the full decent is protected by cables. The descent continues to the Forcia Neigra. At this point we intended to extend the day by continuing onto the Sasso Bianca ridge but as we removed our VF kit the rain began to fall and we had to don our waterproofs for the descent to the Ciampac cable car. We will return to complete this full circuit one day as it promises to be a great round route.

The following two days we were restricted by the weather. Using our lift passes we explored the area between the Col Rodela and the Col Di Rosc and also tested an approach route to the VF Furcela de Saslonch. To do this we walked from the Col Rodela to the Passo Sella and took the coffin lift to the Rif T Demetz. Later we traversed the area via lifts and walking before descending the Pecol lift. Rain meant that we couldn’t complete the VF on the Col Rodela that day.